Impressions about the Ice Blue Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph

When it comes to 1970s-inspired elegant sports watches, those equipped with a shaped case and an integrated bracelet, most people tend to look back at 1972 and the Royal Oak, before quickly jumping to 1976 with the Nautilus and the Ingenieur, and then 1977 with the 222. Yet, we have to keep in mind that one of the earliest representatives of the genre was Girard-Perregaux, which released its take on the luxury sports watch in 1975 with the Laureato. The watch has not been as consistent during its lifespan as some of the big names, though, but it came back strong in 2017 in a historically relevant shape. We’ve seen many attractive editions since then, but the latest one, an ice-blue Laureato Chronograph, strikes hard.

Looking at our past articles covering the Laureato collection of Girard-Perregaux, you’ll find dozens of variants, ranging from classic time-and-date in a masculine size to more compact editions, all the way up to high-end models and, regarding today’s matter, a sporty, larger chronograph model. There’s even a bolder, more technical and sportier sub-range named Absolute, but this has little to do with what we’ll be looking at today. If we take a closer look at our personal favourite, I can confidently say that Frank and Robin have had kind of a crush on the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 in Titanium… Lightweight, discreet and somewhat more instrument-looking due to the material, the monochromatic look of this watch also played a huge role in our love for it (our website is named MONOCHROME for a reason).

If I switch this conversation to my personal tastes, I have always been hugely attracted to the 38mm models – I have a small wrist, and I know that 37 to 39mm watches hit the sweet spot for me. Whether it’s the elegantly restrained sage green model or the bolder copper edition, you can sign me in. That was until we had the opportunity to go hands-on with a watch that’s not really advertised by the brand – a sort of “if you know, you know” watch that the brand keeps a bit under the radar, a limited edition that’s said to be reserved for its official boutiques and its loyal clients. As always, if you ask nicely and politely, there might be a chance to get one.

The watch in question is a stainless steel Laureato Chronograph… There is nothing really new here except for one important thing: its dial. More on that later. After what I said about my personal preference for smaller watches, speaking good words about this larger, heavier, thicker and bolder model doesn’t really make sense, you might say. And I’m to tell you that you’re very close to being right, except that luxury watches don’t have to make sense. They have to create emotions.

What we’re looking at is classic GP Laureato. The design is, like the rest of the current collection, deeply inspired by the original version of 1975 – which, as a reminder, was a quartz-powered watch, while all its competitors relied on thin automatic movements. Back then, GP was more on the innovative side of things. Anyway… Back to today’s Laureato Chronograph, with its case inspired by the original 1975 watch, meaning a central case with a barrel shape, topped by a two-step bezel that has a circular polished base and a brushed octagonal cap. The octagonal shape of the bezel is repeated on the screw-down crown and screwed pushers.

Made from steel – expect a watch with a certain presence on the wrist and a weight in line with a Submariner or a Seamaster – the watch measures 42mm in diameter and has a length of about 50mm. This measurement might seem scary at first, but the case has fine ergonomics, the lugs are slopped, and the bracelet is nicely integrated into the case, making it fairly comfortable. Also, the 12mm thickness is very decent for a 100m water-resistant automatic chronograph. Finally, the case 904L steel case has a very pleasant lustre, adding a refined overall touch.

What truly matters in the context of this limited edition is the dial, which is familiar in layout and finishing but opts for an ice-blue colour – trendy, for sure, but it really stands out in this context. The base retains the classic embossed clous de Paris pattern of the collection, together with an original concentric pattern on the sub-dials. Despite the light colour of the dial and the rhodium-plated hands and markers, contrast and legibility are great, and the chronograph counters are well positioned on the dial. There’s a date window at 4:30, which will again create some debates, but at least the disc matches the colour of the dial.

The integrated bracelet, a crucial element of an elegant steel sports watch, is made in classic GP fashion, with a strong tapering effect and large H-shaped brushed links combined with polished mid-links. It is closed by a 904L stainless steel triple “butterfly” folding clasp.

Inside the case is the in-house calibre GP03300, an automatic base movement topped by an in-house chronograph module. It’s a relatively small and rather delicate movement, with a thickness of 6.50mm, running at a 4Hz frequency with a 46h power reserve. It’s fair to say that it isn’t the best movement available due to its architecture, and thus, it makes sense for it to be hidden under a closed caseback. There’s nothing inherently wrong with it; it’s just that in this segment of the industry, one could expect an integrated movement.

Thoughts

I know… This Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ice Blue, like all the other colours available in the collection, isn’t perfect. There are, objectively, areas of improvement, such as the aforementioned movement architecture, but also the lack of micro-adjustment on the clasp. Another thing I would really enjoy is a quick-change device on the bracelet to switch between this steel bracelet and a leather or rubber strap. Also, and this is more personal, it is a fairly big watch on my wrist. Anyone with a wrist over 18cm will be fine here.

Nevertheless and despite these minor gripes, I think this watch looks simply stunning in the metal. It does have this fresh, light touch of colour that gives it originality without being too much, without the fear that it’ll look outdated in a few years. And while Frank and Robin will argue that the Titanium Laureato Chronograph wins the game, I’m leaning towards this ice blue edition. To each his own.

This Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ice Blue is a limited edition of 180 pieces and is available from the brand’s boutiques. It retails for EUR 20,100 (incl. taxes) or USD 19,100 (excl. taxes). For more details, please visit girard-perregaux.com.